An Era of Change for Fashion Photography: The 1950's and 1960's

The post-war 1950s experienced exceptionally strong economic growth as a result of the previously suppressed consumer demand (Crafts and Tonilo 2002; Sandbrook 2014). The UK media placed pressure on the newly affluent society to ‘repopulate’ post-war Britain (BBC 2014; Cosslett 2012). Furthermore, in line with this goal, magazines showcased the desirable ‘domestic goddess’ stereotype of this time (Littler 2013) to encourage what would later be referred to as the ‘baby boom’ (Blastland 2012). The hourglass body shape became popular for woman (Glamour Daze 2013) as a reflection of the societal pressure on woman to “conform to a traditional female role” (Demarest and Garner 1992 p. 357). This figure type was endorsed by many fifties celebrities, inclusive of Betty Brosmer and Marilyn Monroe. These admired women were both regularly featured in ‘50s fashion photography. Many of these fashion photographs remain iconic photographs today. 

1950's Betty Brosmer: "the best hourglass figure"

Ultimate style icon: Marilyn Monroe 1954 

Furthermore, youths began to enjoy unprecedented financial independence, in-turn, influencing the emergent and rising youth culture (Sandbrook 2014). Sandbrook (2014) states “(i)n their carefree hedonism and economic assertiveness, they often shocked their elders”. From this the 60’s were born.  

1960's Mod style derived from a London youth subculture in the 1950's 

During the 1960s David Bailey and Terence Donovan were two influential fashion photographers. It is argued they “did not merely record the era, they helped to shape it” (BBC 2002). Up until the ‘60s fashion photography remained staged and static however this did not compliment the changing values of British society. Vogue editor Marit Allen claimed the 60’s was “the first time young people wanted to be themselves” (BBC 2002). It was this attitudinal change that influenced the developing fashion and cultural scene (De La Cruz 2012), consequently it had a positive influence on fashion photography.

Terence Donovan for Harper's Bazaar 1964

Bailey, as previously mentioned, pioneered fashion photography throughout the 60’s, directly influencing today’s fashion photography. He is argued to be “one of the most dynamic and influential fashion photographers of the era, from his heyday in the ‘60s until today” (Roy 2001 p.57). His photographs first appeared in Vogue in 1961 (Vogue 2014) and in 1962 he produced his iconic ‘Young Ideas Go West’ photoshoot (below) featuring model Jean Shrimpton (Vogue 2014; Magoo 2012).

'Young Ideas Go West': 1962

In 1963 Bailey photographed his first cover for American Vogue. Only 11 years later in 1972 he photographed his last, during this time he produced a total of 18 covers (Vogue 2014). 

Vogue cover 1965 by David Bailey featuring Jean Shrimpton

Bailey photographed many 1960s celebrities such as supermodels Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton and Penelope Tree. His contrasting back and white photographs “made the celebrities he photographed into cultural icons” (Roy 2001 p. 57). His early fashion photographs often featured Shrimpton, emphasizing her ‘in vogue’ waif look (Roy 2011). Despite the numerous iconic photographs he has taken of her over the past 50 years he now states, “I never understood why people like Jean Shrimpton so much’ (cited in Hudson 2014). 

The Birth of Fashion Photography

Fashion imagery and society, during the time period leading up to fashion photography's creation, will be explored and discussed to contextualise the founding and establishment of fashion photography. 

Magazines have been used to communicate fashion to consumers since the early 18th century. One of the first popular UK magazines was The Ladies' Diary (below), published from 1704 to 1841. The cover reads, “Containing many Delightful and entertaining Particulars, Peculiarity Adapted for the Use and Diversion of the Fair-Sex” (Perl 1979 p. 37). This highlights the divide of the sexes at this time.

The Ladies Diary front page 1738

Indeed, it was conventional for women to only read magazines tailored towards the female market. Additionally magazines such as The Female Tatler (1710) and The Lady’s Magazine (1770) were introduced, raising awareness of fashion among affluent and aspirational women (Graham 1937). As photography was not yet invented at this time fashion plates were used to convey the current fashions and attract consumers. 

Fashion plate 1775

Fashion plate 1787

This lead to heightened spending throughout the 19th century. Hilton states that the Victorians were “obsessed with consumption” (Hilton 2004 p. 101) and concludes that wealth was seen as a benchmark of progress. Furthermore the Victorians regulated consumption by controlling activities deemed negative, for example drinking and street betting, and counterbalanced this by encouraging people to attend art galleries, botanical gardens and read more refined literature to improve their mind (Hilton 2004; Perl 1979). It was at this time more consumer based and pragmatic magazines were introduced to the Victorian consumer; a reflection of the societal changes taking place. This, teamed with the growing demand from consumers, lead to an increase in magazine advertising (Hutchison 2008). To accommodate this growth fashion plates were steadily used to communicate designs to the consumer, informing consumers of the latest styles and trends. These fashion plates informed the composition and presentation of early fashion photography therefore they share similar characteristics (as seen below). 

Fashion plate 1778

1800's fashion photograph

Vogue has dated the earliest fashion photography back to 1856 (Fior 2014) and french photographer Adolphe Braun is claimed to be the first fashion photographer. This legacy is a result of the 288 photographs he published of aristocrat Virginia Oldoini, Countess of Castiglione (below). Despite this, other sources claim that Adolph De Meyer (1868) is the first fashion photographer. Fashion photography is subjective and recognition of what constitutes fashion photography can be debated. Consequently different interpretations of the first fashion photograph and claims of the first fashion photographer exist. 

Virginia Oldoini, Countess of Castiglione

Later in the century magazines such as Harper Bazar (1867) and Vogue (1892) utilised fashion photography as a means to present clothes to their readers. Vogue has pioneered fashion photography and has “launched some of the greatest fashion photographers”. Indeed, the earlier mentioned, Adolphe De Meyer found photographic fame working for Vogue along with many other pioneering fashion photographers at this time, inclusive of Horst P. Horst and George Hoyningen-Huene. Adophe De Meyer was the first staff photographer for Vogue, dating back to 1913, and is claimed to be “an arbiter of taste and trends who immortalised the first three decades of twentieth-century society and shaped the genre of fashion photography” (Vogue 2014). 

Adolphe De Meyer Vanity Fair 1932

To conclude fashion photography quickly followed the introduction of photography itself and was a natural progression from fashion plates. Today these original fashion photographs are still regarded as an inspirational resource, as are the pioneering photographers. 

Street Fashion Photography in Blogging

Street fashion photography is prominent in today’s bloggersphere. Unlike traditional media formats such as magazines and television that rely heavily on staged photography to communicate the desired image to the consumer/audience, blogging utilises street fashion photography (Crewe 2012). Due to similarities between street fashion photography and realistic snapshot genres the content of street fashion photography commands credibility and achieves believability as a result of its ‘realistic’ appearance (Engholm and Hansen-Hansen 2013). Scott Schuman, The Sartorialist, argues that, “while street-fashion photography is an easy world to join...it’s a tough one to stand out in” (Schuman 2011). 

Street fashion photography from FACEHUNTER

As included in The Telegraph’s ‘Top 10 must-read fashion and style blogs’ FACEHUNTER and STREET PEEPER remain two of the top rated fashion blogs. These blogs primarily focus on street fashion photography, capturing a single snapshot or a moment in time, and can be viewed as a documentation of life and style in today’s society. For a more polished approach Ben Trova and Fashion Photography Blog are credible fashion photography blogs, often underpinned by street fashion photography characteristics. Many similarities exist among these blogs, for example the subject is normally aware they are being photographed and posts often feature close-ups of key details. This provides the viewer with a comprehensive and holist understanding of the outfit, rather than a conceptual image type closely associated with fashion photography. 

Street fashion photography from STREET PEEPER

Street fashion photography inspired photographs seen on blog Ben Trova 

The Sartorialist is one of today’s most read blogs and has achieved the respect and admiration of the world’s fashion community. It is an influential source throughout the fashion industry and is arguably best known for its street style fashion photography of stylish ordinary people across the globe (The Sartorialist 2014; Davis 2009). 

Scott Schuman, The Sartorialist

Founded in 2005 by blogger and photographer Scott Schuman (above) The Sartorialist began life with the aim of “creating two-way dialogue about the world of fashion and its relationship to daily life” (The Sartorialist 2014). Since its humble roots The Sartorialist has gone onto pioneer street fashion photography in the bloggersphere (Davis 2009). This blog can be viewed as a document recording individual expressions of style as photographs focus on style rather than passing fashion fads. They capture personality, individualism, creativity and flair. Schuman beautifully captures the “varied sartorial tastes” (The Sartorialist 2014) of people he deems inspirational. This may be a man, a woman, a child, a pensioner or a celebrity; anyone who catches his eye.

'Art of the Trench' - Burberry

Arguably Schuman’s most famous photography project is the “Art of the Trench” for Burberry whereby he photographed people wearing the iconic Burberry trench across the globe as part of the brand’s rejuvenation strategy (Tokatli 2011). Once again street fashion photography is successfully employed by Schuman, strongly reflecting his photography style as seen on his blog. 

The Sartorialist 'blook' 

Inside The Sartorialist Closer

Complimentary to his blog Schuman has released a two ‘blooks’. The first under the eponymous title ‘The Sartorialist‘ and the second ‘The Sartorialist: Closer’. Both, like his blog, capture a variety of style from across the globe using street photography and the latter is said to “reflect Scott’s unique sensibility and vision” (The Sartorialist 2014).