An Era of Change for Fashion Photography: The 1950's and 1960's

The post-war 1950s experienced exceptionally strong economic growth as a result of the previously suppressed consumer demand (Crafts and Tonilo 2002; Sandbrook 2014). The UK media placed pressure on the newly affluent society to ‘repopulate’ post-war Britain (BBC 2014; Cosslett 2012). Furthermore, in line with this goal, magazines showcased the desirable ‘domestic goddess’ stereotype of this time (Littler 2013) to encourage what would later be referred to as the ‘baby boom’ (Blastland 2012). The hourglass body shape became popular for woman (Glamour Daze 2013) as a reflection of the societal pressure on woman to “conform to a traditional female role” (Demarest and Garner 1992 p. 357). This figure type was endorsed by many fifties celebrities, inclusive of Betty Brosmer and Marilyn Monroe. These admired women were both regularly featured in ‘50s fashion photography. Many of these fashion photographs remain iconic photographs today. 

1950's Betty Brosmer: "the best hourglass figure"

Ultimate style icon: Marilyn Monroe 1954 

Furthermore, youths began to enjoy unprecedented financial independence, in-turn, influencing the emergent and rising youth culture (Sandbrook 2014). Sandbrook (2014) states “(i)n their carefree hedonism and economic assertiveness, they often shocked their elders”. From this the 60’s were born.  

1960's Mod style derived from a London youth subculture in the 1950's 

During the 1960s David Bailey and Terence Donovan were two influential fashion photographers. It is argued they “did not merely record the era, they helped to shape it” (BBC 2002). Up until the ‘60s fashion photography remained staged and static however this did not compliment the changing values of British society. Vogue editor Marit Allen claimed the 60’s was “the first time young people wanted to be themselves” (BBC 2002). It was this attitudinal change that influenced the developing fashion and cultural scene (De La Cruz 2012), consequently it had a positive influence on fashion photography.

Terence Donovan for Harper's Bazaar 1964

Bailey, as previously mentioned, pioneered fashion photography throughout the 60’s, directly influencing today’s fashion photography. He is argued to be “one of the most dynamic and influential fashion photographers of the era, from his heyday in the ‘60s until today” (Roy 2001 p.57). His photographs first appeared in Vogue in 1961 (Vogue 2014) and in 1962 he produced his iconic ‘Young Ideas Go West’ photoshoot (below) featuring model Jean Shrimpton (Vogue 2014; Magoo 2012).

'Young Ideas Go West': 1962

In 1963 Bailey photographed his first cover for American Vogue. Only 11 years later in 1972 he photographed his last, during this time he produced a total of 18 covers (Vogue 2014). 

Vogue cover 1965 by David Bailey featuring Jean Shrimpton

Bailey photographed many 1960s celebrities such as supermodels Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton and Penelope Tree. His contrasting back and white photographs “made the celebrities he photographed into cultural icons” (Roy 2001 p. 57). His early fashion photographs often featured Shrimpton, emphasizing her ‘in vogue’ waif look (Roy 2011). Despite the numerous iconic photographs he has taken of her over the past 50 years he now states, “I never understood why people like Jean Shrimpton so much’ (cited in Hudson 2014).