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Monday, 28 April 2014

Religion in Contemporary Photography: Celebrity Obsession


Celebrity worship is prevalent in contemporary society (Caldwell and Henry 2009; Ward 2011) and intense celebrity worship is on the rise; psychologists term this disorder Celebrity Worship Syndrome (Faye 2013). Today research shows at least one in three people worship celebrities (Caldwell and Henry 2009). Maltby et al. (2001 p. 1157) have recognised a “(r)elationship between celebrity worship and religiosity”. God-like characteristics are often associated with celebrities, despite today’s meaning of celebrity deriving from “the fall of gods, and the rise of democratic governments and secular societies” (Rojek 2001 p.9). Giles (2000 cited in Maltby et al. 2001 p. 1158) argues that celebrity is a way of “preserving a unique part of the self for eternity”. This creates illusions of immortality, highlighting a parallelism between celebrity status and that of a god. While Ward (2011) in his book “Gods Behaving Badly” argues “(c)an our fixation on and devotion to celebrity culture itself be considered a religion?”  

Celebrities achieve and record their god-like celebrity status through “(c)ultural intermediaries” (Rojek 2001 p. 10) such as fashion photographers. Fashion photography presents a staged representation of the celebrity’s ‘front’ whilst regulating the real self on display (Rojek 2001). Through these engineered and manipulated photographs celebrities are able to convey connotations of god, heightening their god-like status and associating themselves with religion.  

Madonna: “I won't be happy ‘till I'm as famous as God” 

Madonna has long established her relationship with religion in contemporary mass media; her key ‘accessory’ being the cross (Interview Magazine). In Madonna’s ‘daring’ 2013 article for Harper’s Bazaar she states “I decided I needed to have a spiritual life. That’s when I discovered Kabbalah” (Madonna 2013). Some recognise her as having a casual, romantic relationship with faith while others believe she encourages religious tolerance (Huffipost Celebrity 2013). Additionally, she arguably achieves her god-like status from the worship she receives from her mass fan-base (Caldwell and Henry 2009).

Madonna’s use of religious symbols permeates the fashion photography she features in. This reinforces her relationship with God and implies an affinity with God (Detweiler and Taylor 2003). Despite this, today, ‘Madonna catholic’ is a term used to refer to someone who “decides to keep their catholic status only for cultural/image reasons” (Urban Dictionary 2013).   
Madonna for Interview Magazine 
Dita Von Teese: A Religious Juxtaposition 

At Christmas 2009 Harper’s Bazaar Russia’s cover photoshoot by photographer Marcin Tyszka staring Dita Von Teese, an american celebrity burlesque dancer, utilises religion to convey superiority, opulence and godly qualities (Another 2013;). Von Teese wears a Christian Lacroix wedding gown, rosary style beads (Jocelyn 2013) and white headscarf that “hints at the Madonnas taken out on the street during Spanish processions” (Gorgan 2009) as part of the ‘Sinner or Saint’ photoshoot. 


Dita Von Teese: Haper's Bazzar Russia 
Dita: Harper's Bazaar Russia 
Religion: A Prevalent Theme Throughout Fashion Photography 

Following on from this theme Vogue is declared to be the “fashion bible” (Conde Nast International 2014) while many other fashion publications aspire to be so. Contemporary fashion magazines and fashion photography have embraced conceptual religious themes as the “various ways we construct identity becomes increasingly important” (Hancock, Woods and Karaminas 2013 p. xii). The following fashion photographs highlight the prevalent theme of religious inspired fashion photography in contemporary media. 


Biblical fashion photography by Pisid Whangvisarn
Vogue: model wears Dolce & Gabbana 

Kate Moss for W Magazine 2012

Kate Moss for W Magazine 2012

Wednesday, 16 April 2014

Photojournalism, Feminism and Kate Moss


From a photojournalism perspective, it is important to understand the affect feminist photographs have on the viewer. “The concept of affect has been productive for feminist theory” (Ferreday2013 p. 4) as it relates to the recognition of feelings of “pleasure, repulsion, ambivalence” (Ferreday 2013p. 3) that naturally arise in relation to the image being viewed. Photojournalism with feminist undertones is argued to evoke these emotions. 

Kate Moss: Sexuality, Empowerment and Individuality 

Kate Moss, conforms to the third-wave feminism movement; concerned with empowerment, reclaiming sexuality, the body and individuality (Shugart, Waggoner and Hallstein 2001). Moss is recognised by her female supporters as a “heroine who survives to transcend the pressures of femininity and fame” (Ferredy p.3 or 4). This highlights the perceived empowerment she commands. Furthermore, a key characteristic of third wavers is their desire to seek and embrace sexual desire. This is evident in many of Moss’ phootshoots. 

Mario Testino for V Magazine: Only Girls in The World
Mario Testino for V Magazine: Only Girls in The World
Mario Testino’s ‘Only Girls in The World’ photoshoot for V Magazine, staring Kate Moss and Rihanna, communicates intense sexuality and desire. V Magazine states that Moss and Rihanna are “fearless females in a saucy, hypersexualized photoshoot” (V Magazine 2013). This S&M inspired fashion shoot conforms to third wave characteristics. 

Iain McKell for V Magazine: Kate and the Gypsies 
Moss’ sense of empowerment is captured above by V Magazines' in house photographer Iain McKell. The stag antlers arguably signify power and status while her revealed body in an exposed landscape shows confidence.

These photoshoots are prime examples of third wave feminism establishing and concerting itself in postmodern mainstream media through fashion photography. Shugart, Waggoner and Hallstein (2001) argue that third-wave feminism has embedded itself in popular culture; the fashion industry acting as a significant catalyst. In turn, contemporary mass media has embraced this movement. It showcases images of “vibrant, assertive, and powerful young women” (Shugart, Waggoner and Hallstein 2001 p.195) thus deifying our contemporary culture.

Kate Moss features in McQueen advertising: Strong, powerful female
All of Moss’ fashion photography is believed to feature gender issues, particularly androgyny as highlighted in the CK One campaign (below). This conforms to third-wavers “resistance to a binary concept of gender” (Shugart, Waggoner and Hallstein 2001 p.201). These photographs effectively show the “blurring of boundaries between masculinity and femininity” (Shugart, Waggoner and Hallstein 2001 p.201) whilst communicating Moss’s confidence with her sexuality. 

1994 Calvin Klein One advert by Steven Meisel 
HBD Kate Moss: V Magazine

Above Moss combines her feminine sexuality with comic-like fake facial hair in another photoshoot of V Magazine, photographed by Inez & Vinoodh. As earlier discussed these photographs command emotion from the viewer. Photojournalism aims to communicate and engage with the viewer and evoke a reaction. A juxtaposition of gender is a prevalent theme throughout third wave feminist photojournalism.  






Thursday, 3 April 2014

Fashion Photography Embraces TV Celebrity

This post aims to explore the portrayal of television celebrities in fashion photography with reference to realist fashion photography and art fashion photography.  

Realist Fashion Photography 
Realist fashion photography differs from documentary fashion photography and art photography (Smedley 2013) as it portrays, in this analysis, TV celebrities ‘accepting’ an often unsatisfactory reality (Hein 2009). This consequently puts the viewer at unease as the realist photograph appears “disquieting and uncomfortable” (Smedly 2013 p.154). It is argued that realist fashion photography continues to create the desired ‘shock’ impact that photojournalism has lost (Smedey 2013). In this analysis the impact is heightened by the attention these celebrities command in today’s society (Fairchild 2007). Furthermore realist fashion photography is argued to provide aesthetically pleasing and commercial imagery that “represent(s) what refuses to be seen” (Baudrillard 2000). 

Brad Pitt and Steven Klein
Brad Pitt, who has both a successful TV and film career (Robb 1996), features in Steven Klein’s ‘Domesic Bliss’ fashion photospread for W Magazine (W Magazine 2005). It can be argued that this photoshoot is underpinned by realist fashion photography theory due to the visible underlying theme of ‘truthful reality’, despite its staged and manipulated presentation. Dumenco (2004) believes Klein to be “the most influential (and busy) fashion photographer in the world right now” and states Klein’s “sexually ambiguous, quasi-commercial transgressivness is the new fashion frisson”. It is this new approach, developed by Klein, that reinforces the widely accepted conclusion that fashion photography now reflects current societal issues and trends (Walther 2000; Fox 2013; Smedley 2013) rather than the creation of idealistic “mindlessly glam” images (Dumenco 2004). It is Klein's affinity with the truth and reality that encourages him to work closely with the celebrities he photographs and his ability to “re-contextualise” them whilst representing an important aspect of their personality in his work (Ward 2009). 

 Domestic Bliss: Pitt wears Burberry, Jolie wears Miu Miu
Domestic Bliss: Both wear Alexander McQueen
Domestic Bliss: Both wear vintage 
TV Celebrities in Fashion Photography
Brad Pitt is one among many TV celebrities who have featured in fashion photography.  Notable examples include Sarah Jessica Parker (Cary Bradshaw of Sex and the City) and Blake Lively (Serena van der Woodsen of Gossip Girl) whose characters have a profound interest in fashion and define their identity through the labels they wear (Warner 2014). Their TV character’s fashion choices often harmonise with the actor's own fashion sense. This arguably aids their progression from TV to fashion photography subject as a powerful affinity exists with fashion and style both on and off screen (Warner 2014). Their celebrity style status (Gibson 2012) heightens the fashion photography's believability and credibility as these celebrities are regarded as an expert source (Atkin and Beltramini 2007). 

Blake Lively for Marie Claire 2012
Blake Lively for Marie Claire 2012
Blake Lively features regularly in Marie Claire photospeads. The above photographs formed part of Lively’s cover photoshoot and interview spread for Marie Claire October 2012. In the interview Lively states “I dress the same as my character”, when referencing Gossip Girl. This encourages the audience to draw parallels between her on and off set character, heightening her credibility as a style expert (Atkin and Beltramini 2007). This photoshoot can be described as ‘art photography‘ rather than ‘realist photography’ as it adopts a traditional commercial and promotional approach to photography showcasing an idealistic fantasy (Smedly 2013).

Like Lively, Sarah Jessica Parker is also often featured in glossy magazines. Here (below) she is photographed by Simon Upton wearing Dolce & Gabbana in Harper’s Bazaar Russia, June 2013. The commercial underpinning of these photographs highlight the style endorsement from Parker.

Sarah Jessica Parker Harper's Bazaar 2013
Sarah Jessica Parker Harper's Bazaar 2013
More commonly Parker is featured in fashion art photography (below) that conveys an idealistic lifestyle to the consumer, often focusing on opulence and timeless style. This conforms to the prevalent theme of ‘lifestyle’ art photography genre within fashion photography (Wells 2000). 

Sarah Jessic Parker: Vogue 2010
Vogue 2003: photographed by Steven Meisel